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In-game name: Wazza Ra Liyrka

 
#1 Posted at 2017-10-06 08:01        
     
I love flying in ArmA and do this a lot with my HOTAS setup at home. While travelling I have ArmA installed on my laptop but I never fly helis or airplanes since I cant bring the HOTAS with me and flying with mouse or keyboard is very awkward. So what to do? Well I sacked an old unused RC controls and build my own mini HOTAS which is the perfect size for traveling. Not too small buta lso not to big. It is powered with a Leobodnar BU0836 12-bit Joystick controller and connects with USB to computer, no extra drivers necessary. :)

So I gutted an old RC transmitter and combined its gimbals with trim pots, some switches and toggles. Everything is connected to a Leobodnar BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Controller and matrix board. Very easy to use and install. The CC between mounting holes is 40mm hence the name Mini HOTAS 40.

Parts needed:
1pcs 3d printed box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2564784
1pcs 3d printed lid: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2564784
2pcs 3d printed supports: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2564784
2pcs gimbals CC40mm
8pcs 7mm momentary push switches
4pcs 3-way flip switches
6pcs 10x2mm rare earth magnets
6pcs M3 screws
6pcs M3 knurl nuts
1pcs USB-cable (A-connector and open ended), length depending on your need. For use with laptop I have only 60cm.
1pcs Rubber grommet suitable for USB cable
1pcs zip tie
1pcs BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Controller: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=219
1pcs BU0836A Break out Matrix board: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=274

Note: I've also designed a larger version for CC45mm gimbals: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2569465

Step 1. Print the box.

Step 2. Mount the knurl nuts in place using a solder iron. Make it hot and let it melt into the correct position.

Step 3 (optional). If you want to make the box nice spend some time to sand and plaster it smooth before applying paint.

Step 4. Glue magnets to box and supports. I use CA-glue with accelerator

Step 5. Insert a USB cable through the center hole of the box and solder to the BU0836. I use a rubber grommet to reduce dirt coming into the box.

Step 6. Solder USB cable to BU0836.

Step 7. Solder the BU0836 cards.

Step 8. Attach controls; joystick gimbal, switches and pots to the lid.

Step 9. Solder cables to the controls, twist them to reduce interference and make sure they are longer then you need.

Step 10. Trim cables with some extra cm to spare if the BU0836 is on the center bottom of the box.

Step 11. Solder controls to the BU0836 cards.

Step 12. Position BU0826 card in the bottom center of the box and pull on the USB cable so you have a few cm spare cm inside the box and attach the zip tie between the BU0826 and rubber grommet where it'll work as a strain relief.

Step 13. Hot glue the BU0836 cards (two dabs on either side so it is easy to detach if necessary).

Step 14. Use M3 screws and attach lid to box.

Step 15. Setup as a standrad joystick inthe simulator of your choice! :)













Author Message


Posts: 4
Rank:


Level: Member

Country: se
Location:
Occupation:
Age:
In-game name: Wazza Ra Liyrka

 
#2 Posted at 2017-12-09 11:44        
     
After the 40 and 45 HOTAS I wanted some more changes so I designed a third version. :)

The biggest changes is the stick gimbals which are new ones (instead of old re-used). The performance and resolution will be much better due to ball bearings and hall sensors.

Parts box:
1pcs 3d printed box
1pcs 3d printed lid
2pcs 3d printed supports
6pcs 10x10x2mm neodymium magnets
6pcs M3x6-10mm

Parts controls:
2pcs Frsky M7 gimbals
8pcs Push buttons
2pcs Turn knobs
2pcs Slide switches with 4 positions (DP4T)
1pcs Numpad with 16 buttons
1pcs BU0836 with matrix board